Wee Heavy, and Beersmith confuses me

[astx813]

Planning a Strong Scotch Ale, inspired by a Belhaven Wee Heavy clone, further inspired by the ingredients that were available to me. I use the term "inspired" loosely that second time through...

10 lbs American 2 Row Pale
2 lbs Maris Otter Pale
7 oz Crystal 20 (instead of 9 oz British Crystal 55)
4 oz Biscuit
3.5 oz Aromatic
3.5 oz Crystal 120 (see Crystal 20)
3.0 oz Peat Malt
2.5 oz Chocolate Malt
1.5 oz Roasted Barley

90 minute boil:
1 oz Perle @ 90 min
.25 EKG & .25 Fuggle @ 15 min

So my first question is: Really? 1.5 oz in a 14+ lb grain bill? Are any of those small amount inclusions going to make any noticeable contribution?

Second question is, this is the first time I've played with Beersmith. I plugged in the info, and it's saying I need a 270.5 billion cell starter and recommending a 4 liter starter. Or it also gives the option of using 30 slap packs. Am I missing something?

Oh, and Merry Christmas from Two Jews Brews!

[JoeHPhil]

Yes, the small additions of these types of grain will make a difference.

As your the yeast count, Mr. Malty is a great resource, just be sure to check the method of yeast while using the calculator. If you have a stir plate it takes a lot less volume than if you do not, that sort of thing.

Generally though, I brew a starter batch of beer before my wee heavy's and barleywines. I'll brew a normal gravity scotch ale first and use the yeast cake for the wee heavy, same principle for the barleywine.

[astx813]

It's amazing how many different ways people have of making yeast starters! This is the first time I'm not just relying on the slap pack, but given a target OG of 1.075, I felt it prudent. So based on the advice I pulled together from the various sources. Doesn't seem too convoluted, but the suggested ratios of water:dme were all over the place, and I found very little about yeast nutrient.

4.5 oz light DME
6 cups H2O
3/8 tsp Fermaid K

Boiled about 15 minutes, cooled to about 70 in an ice bath before transferring to a growler, pitched the activated slap pack (about 6-8 hours after activating), and shook it up to aerate, then covered with sanitized foil. The yeast seems to be happily reproducing now 6 hours later. Every time I disturb the growler, it foams way up. Should be good and ready by the time I pitch it early Monday evening. Question: when pitching, do I just shake it up to loosen up all the settled yeast and dump it all in? Or do I want to pour off the liquid and just try to get the slurry?

[beermikester]

The ratio of water:dme that I use is 1 cup of DME to 1 quart of water. I had gotten that from Palmer's site, which I trust, and has proven to work very well for me. As for the Fermaid K, the label on the front of mine says to use 1/8 to 1/4 tsp per gallon, so I usually use 1/8 tsp for a 2 quart starter. Wonder if I should use more?

As far as pitching, I'm sure you're going to hear both sides. But I personally want to get every last bit, as there are yeast cells in that slurry. So I would pitch some off the top, then give it a good swirl to get the stuff on the bottom unstuck and able to be pitched.

That being said, I usually use a stir plate for my starters. Among all the other benefits, you don't have to worry about it foaming over and there usually isn't much slurry stuck to the bottom.

[astx813]

I definitely plan on getting (or MacGyvering) a stir plate in the near future. Tried cobbling one together last week when I had some free time, but I was either working with too weak a power supply or too burned out a fan and I haven't had a chance to mess with it since.

[siwelwerd]

1. I go 6 oz DME to 2 qt water. This gives 1.035. You're looking for 1.030-1.040.
2. If I have more than 2L starter for a 5 gallon batch, I chill and decant. Optimize your starter for yeast growth, not flavor; as long as the relative size is not too large you are still okay to pitch the whole thing.
3. A third option for your stirplate not spinning is the magnet too close to the fan. Stick a washer in between and it may spin right up.